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Darkest Curry in Japan

#17 Turban Curry


I’m not the type to do a lot of research before a trip, but I at least check the local tourism board’s website before heading out.

This time I took a quick look at the Kanazawa Tourism Association website. It’s a good source of hints about what to see and what to eat in the city. The food page is one I never skip.

Kanazawa is best known for its seafood, but the site also mentions Hanton Rice, guruma-fu oden, jibuni for the cold months, kabu-ra sushi when yellowtail is in season, and gold leaf ice cream — a nod to the city’s gold leaf craft tradition. And then there’s Kanazawa curry, noted as something distinctive.

Curry, sure. Japanese curry comes in so many varieties, and it’s good. A solid choice for a quick, easy lunch on the road.

So I searched for the most famous Kanazawa curry spot and found this place: Turban Curry. It’s right on the way to the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, which was my plan for the day anyway — a perfect lunch stop.

For reference, Champion Curry is said to be the originator of Kanazawa curry, and Go Go Curry is the chain that’s spread across the country — the name more Japanese people would recognize.

Coming out of the hotel, I walked through Kakinokibatake(柿木畠) and reached Hyakumangoku-dori(百万石通り), and right there was the Turban Curry main store.

About eight seats, maybe. A small place. Worn but clean.

You pick your order from the vending machine outside, get a ticket, walk in, and hand it over. That’s the system.

I got there well past 2 p.m., almost 3 — not a single customer inside. But people kept coming in while I was eating. The reputation checks out.

At a well-known spot, I always start with the most basic thing on the menu.

So today’s pick was the rosu-katsu curry(ロースカツカレー), medium size. I eat small portions, but small felt like too little.

Turned out to be just right for me — so for an average adult male, large is probably the better call. Or order something with more toppings.

Assuming Turban Curry is a fair representation of Kanazawa curry: the most distinctive thing is the color. It’s very dark. That’s where the deep flavor and thick texture come from, apparently.

It’s served in a slightly exotic-looking stainless steel bowl, with cabbage on the side, and you get a fork-spoon combo instead of chopsticks — the exact same utensil anyone who’s been in the Korean military would recognize.

One thing that caught me off guard: no dipping sauce for the cabbage. It’s there to mix into the curry and rice. Apparently that’s another Kanazawa curry thing.

Not a fine dining experience, overall. It eats more like fast food — in feel, in setting, in pace. The tonkatsu is lighter than what you’d get at a dedicated katsu restaurant, no question.

But the price is low and the bold flavor hits the spot. Strongly recommended as a meal during a trip.

It’s late for lunch, but lunch is done — time to walk a bit.


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