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    Orange Railway and Kagoshima 2026: All Posts

    #0 Index

    Orange Railway and Kagoshima 2026: All Posts

    Eight days in Kagoshima Prefecture along the Hisatsu Orange Railway: samurai streets in Izumi, the sea at Akune, quiet Satsumasendai, and Tenmonkan nights.


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    A Short Break Between the Alleys

    #18 Hwashin Yeonswaejeom

    A Short Break Between the Alleys

    When I first came across the word “yeonswaejeom(연쇄점),”I couldn’t immediately guess what it meant. I could tell, though,that it was probably a Sino-Korean term,formed in a Japanese style during the colonial period. Yeonswaejeom.What kind of word was this? After looking it up,I learned that it was a term used at the timefor what we would now call a chain store. In other words,it referred to shops operating under the name “Hwashin.” So then,what exactly was Hwashin? It may sound unfamiliar to younger generations today,but for people older than me,it is a name that often rings a bell without much effort.…


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    Time Quietly Held by the Streets

    #17 The Old Downtown; Along the Port and the Market

    Time Quietly Held by the Streets

    While walking through the old downtown, night had already fallen. I think that, for ordinary travelers, spending about one day looking around the old downtown is usually enough. But I am a somewhat lazy traveler who starts the day late and finishes early.For someone like me, the old downtown must have been too large a space to cover in just one day. I had no choice but to have dinner and bring the walk to an end. Although the walk ended, in fact, it was also the beginning of a new journey.I believe that the time after sunset, nighttime, is…


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    A Bowl of Oxtail Gomtang to Restore My Energy

    #16 Daemyeonggwan

    A Bowl of Oxtail Gomtang to Restore My Energy

    On this trip, there were places I newly discovered,but there were also places I had known for a long time.Seongyeong Junchi Hoetjip is one of those places I already knew and liked,and Daemyeonggwan, which I’m introducing this time, is the same. Daemyeonggwan has a simple menu. There are only oxtail gomtang and dogani-tang.If you want both, you can order an extra portion. I usually eat the oxtail gomtang.When I have its rich yet clean broth,it feels like my energy is being restored. As usual, I stopped by the restaurant in the late afternoon,a bit after lunchtime.The place isn’t very large,so…


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    I finally understood why this place is so famous.

    #15 Jangteo Sikdang

    I finally understood why this place is so famous.

    Since the purpose of this trip is walking around the old downtown area,I naturally look for restaurants located in the old town as well. Many famous places have branch locations in Hadang, the newer part of the city,which might be more convenient.But for someone who enjoys walking,the original location in the old town feels more appealing. Today’s lunch was at one of the most famous places in Mokpo. Jangteo Sikdang serves a few menu items,but its most famous dish is crab meat,made from blue swimming crab (Korean flower crab). Only the naturally sweet crab meat is carefully picked outand mixed…


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    Walking Through Mokpo’s History.

    #14 Mokpo Modern History and Culture Space

    Walking Through Mokpo’s History.

    I walk through the old downtown. I walk slowly through Mokpo’s old downtown. Winter is harsh, but the wind from the southern sea is more bearable than the one in Seoul.With the afternoon sunlight added, the walk feels quite manageable. No matter which alley of the old downtown you walk through, you can feel Mokpo’s unique atmosphere,but it helps to set destinations along the way, at least to decide which direction to head toward. The first destination I chose was Mokpo Yudal Elementary School. Part of Mokpo’s old downtown has been designated as a nationally registered cultural heritage site,and this…


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    The Starting Point of a Walk Through Mokpo’s Modern History

    #13 Mokpo Modern History Museum, Building 1

    The Starting Point of a Walk Through Mokpo’s Modern History

    As I mentioned in an earlier post, one of the main purposes of this trip was to slowly walk through Mokpo’s old downtown.Unlike many other cities, Mokpo has layers of modern and contemporary history still deeply embedded in the city.This trip was about walking through those remaining streets and alleys of modern history,and that is how I arrived at Mokpo Modern History Museum, Building 1—the starting point of that walk. This building was constructed in 1900 as a Japanese consulate.During Japan’s colonial rule, it functioned as the “Mokpo-bucheong,”a governing body that effectively controlled local administration and judicial affairs.In other words,…


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    The Nutty Taste of Mokpo, Jungkkan

    #12 Daemyeongchun

    The Nutty Taste of Mokpo, Jungkkan

    One of the well-known foods in Mokpo is something called “Jungkkan.” According to what you can find through a quick search, the name comes from shortening “ganjjajang from Junghwaru” into “Jungkkan.”It seems that the original place is Junghwaru, located in the old downtown shopping area. However, since the day I planned to visit happened to be their regular day off,I ended up going to a nearby place called Daemyeongchun instead. I sat down at a table, ordered a bowl of Jungkkan, and waited.A group that came in after me also ordered Jungkkan.They asked the owner what “Jungkkan” meant.I listened carefully,…